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3d Printing

Discussion in 'DIY Lounge' started by Dustin B, Apr 19, 2015.

  1. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    Printed two test bars last night. The amount they were off fell within rounding to the steps per mm my x and y steppers were already set too. Gonna be a fun if at times frustrating toy. I think I'm gonna have to get auto bed leveling setup as that process isn't much fun manually.

    https://goo.gl/photos/vM6pK3sc5o7EqZYTA
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 28, 2016
  2. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    First PETG print and my first part for the printer. New idler pulley since the kit just has it ride directly on the bearings. Think I might need to slow things down a bit for a part this small. Got a lot of stringing and at the beginning the nozzle was dragging through the bottom layers a bit so I reduced the extrusion multiplier to 0.99 which seemed to stop it. Overall I think not bad for my 4th print ever.

    https://goo.gl/photos/Scm7zzHA5s4H5DmK8
    https://goo.gl/photos/2usDzJjBDDJFfTo76
     
  3. John F

    John F Active Member War Zone Member

    I got a Da Vinci Jr (as a birthday present from my wife). I like it a lot. :)

    My first thing made was an ereader holder (the green part).

    My ongoing project is a support for an ereader holder. :)
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    Awesome. Haven't even turned mine on since Everly was born. Got a bunch of things I want to make. Hopefully some will happen this fall or winter.

    Design any of it yourself? What software you using?
     
  5. John F

    John F Active Member War Zone Member

    I'm using SketchUp (Make?). I did the ereader stand using SketchUp (the green part in the photo). I also made a bike mount for my iPhone. I'm also using an STL plugin. I have a little hickup exporting from SketchUp to the native printing software (XYZware), so I currently do: SketchUp->Tinkercad->XYZWare; this is actually helpful since it allows me to see some (of my) errors that creep in from going from software to software.

    I'm not much of a mechanical guy, so I'm having a lot of fun making mistakes. :)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 7, 2016
  6. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    I'm using it too. Has its limitations but I already knew how to use it so I've been sticking with it for now. If you haven't found them yet there are several plugins you should checkout. Solid Inspector 2. Just about all the Fredo6 stuff. And the Enron Solid Tools (https://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/eneroth-solid-tools) will work with Make with a rather trivial code change to an if statement in the ruby script for it before you install it. If you want it and can't figure it out I can walk you through making the change.
     
  7. John F

    John F Active Member War Zone Member

    Thank you for the Fredo6 suggestion. The round corners is saving me a lot of time. :)
     
  8. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

  9. John F

    John F Active Member War Zone Member

    Yeah, I've been using that. But you made me look at my "hickup", and all I needed to do was export in mm instead of inches.

    And since you are being so helpful... :)

    I have a cylinder sitting on a plane: how can I get a gradual curved buildup around the cylinder from the plane; draw an arc (from the top of the cylinder to the plane) and use the Follow Me tool?
     
  10. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    I'd likely draw a circle on the plane then draw the profile I wanted as a line. Then use the follow me took on the line telling it to follow the circle.

    The curviloft plugin could also be used to do it. I think with it you'd draw a larger circle below the cylinder and then draw a line with the curve you want between the circle and cylinder and then use the tool on them.

    Curviloft is also the plugin I used to do the retangle to circle transition on the tablesaw dust port adapter I made.

    You generally want to try and avoid any hidden faces as they can prevent the model from being considered a solid and be a bitch to get sorted out.

    I've also been contemplating taking some time to figure out OnShape as it's intended for modeling parts and is free for the type of usage I need. Biggest hold back is dealing with the lag in a browser given that it's an online tool. I believe it's supposed to be quite impressive if you're closer to one of their servers than I am.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 11, 2016
  11. CJ

    CJ Well-Known Member Admin War Zone Member

    Top Poster Of Month

    I've been looking at 3D printers recently. I'm kind of looking in what I consider the mid-range of consumer models so about the $1000 price point. I may wait for the Robo 3D R2 that is coming out January. I find it extremely difficult to research these devices as the entire market of brands I've never heard of with mostly no history. There seems to be a lot of noise too, like I'll google top 10 3D printers 2016 and there will be a youtube video but its all vaporware. The entire rundown of 10 printers will all be kickstarters or other things you can't actually buy yet.

    Any advice in my price point? I want decent resolution and somewhat large print area (better than 6x6x6 if I can). I want an open system that can use as many different materials as possible. If its upgradeable great (i.e. can it take a laser engraving head). And finally I'd like a physically closed "hood" system if possible. The R2 seems to fit all those criteria. It can take a second print head and print two colors/materials simultaneously, it can take a laser engraving head, it can take tons of materials, it's got a closed hood, I think its like an 8x8x10 printing area. Its also wi-fi enabled and has a smart phone app so its consumer oriented in that regard but it also uses common open desktop software and can take any design file compatible with that software.

    I'd ask those who have 3D printed what has been the coolest thing you've printed and what has been the most fun thing?
     
  12. DYohn

    DYohn Well-Known Member Donor

    My company owns the largest 3D printing facility in the world in Singapore. The coolest thing I've seen is they did a full body 3D laser scan of the facility manager then printed out a photo realistic statue of him that was 6" tall.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 2, 2016
    E Jones likes this.
  13. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    I never really researched up on what was out there that wasn't in kit form (getting a 12" cubed build volume none kit form gets expensive for anything really well featured). I've never been a fan of the systems that cantilever the bed for z-axis movement. I'd prefer it to be more supported than that. I still hope to design and build my own delta at some point way out in the future. Having it enclosed can really help some prints as they are protected from outside air movement or can be kept warmer during printing. It won't really help with the smell though unless you can get it to vent actively outside your house. Most of them are upgrade-able but they tend to have proprietary mounting systems so changing to different after market hot ends isn't as easy (can always use it to print a new mount for a different hot end though). Adding a second hotend for dual material will also significantly reduce either your x or y build volume (min 1-2") and they can cause some significant issues with leveling unless the mounting system really lets you fine tune getting their nozzles into the same plane.

    Makerfarm has a new 12" metal frame kit that has a deluxe add on that is setup to add plexy or glass sides and top. Would be ~$1k all optioned up. It really isn't that hard to assemble and you learn a lot about how the printer works building it which is a good thing. It also uses very standard parts which makes it very easy to repair and upgrade. You can also order it with an E3D hotend which is well proven (and it's design is such that you could mount anything you wanted to it easily). Lots of the ready built ones tend to use hotends that aren't anywhere near as good.

    This guys channel is excellent on getting you up to speed on a lot of what you need to know to make successful prints.

    https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer

    Running out of time to type this, I'll come back and expand or tweak this more later. Coolest thing I printed was the start of this thread. New baby has made it so I haven't touched it in months. I'm definitely looking forward to what I will be able to make with it for jigs in my shop and when I get to making a custom 4 way masking system for my theater.
     
  14. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    Make sure what ever you get it has a good hotend. Preferably all metal that doesn't jam easily. E3D just came out with a silicon sock for theirs which is brilliant.

    http://e3d-online.com/Socks-Launch

    Make sure it doesn't tie you to a particular slicer. You'll want to be able to play with that to find the best fit for you.

    And if you're purpose is to print functional parts don't get caught up on fine resolution. Printing tiny layers with tiny nozzles to get excellent fine detail produces weaker parts that take forever to print. The part at the start of this thread would take more than 2 days to print at a 0.1 layer height. With the 0.8 nozzle I now have and a 0.7 layer height that dust port adapter would be stronger and print in 2-3 hours.

    But if you're more interested in printing finely detailed models you will need to be prepared for long prints. I'd also suggest that a SLA printer might be a better choice (you'll have to up your budget though).
     
  15. CJ

    CJ Well-Known Member Admin War Zone Member

    Top Poster Of Month

    Dustin, I think more likely I'll be making toys, puzzles, figurines, household items etc. Not "industrial" parts of any sort. I don't think SLA is in the cards even if it might technically be more suitable for my purposes. I've been simultaneously researching finishing with epoxy and DIY acetone vapor finishing and in fact, will probably print a lot of things that get sanded and given to my kids to paint as art projects.
     
  16. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    I wouldn't worry too much about the larger print volume then. I doubt you'll use much more than 6x6x6 most of the time. Especially after you start getting a feel for print times. Put more emphasis on hot end, bed leveling and other features you want over build volume.

    I also doubt you'll print much abs so don't worry too much about the acetone bath stuff. It smells a lot while printing and is difficult to get printing well. Pla or some of the new pla derivative filaments (e3d edge) will end up your preference.

    Also with fdm printers you have to play around with the settings a lot to get them to print nicely (and those settings will vary by every type of filament). Sadly there isn't much of a real science to it with consumer grade, it's trial and error.

    Tom's summary of dual extrusion.
    https://youtu.be/FvY2XfAWelk

    His latest what to get video. It's one of his live streams though so it's very long and will meander a lot compared to his scripted videos.

    https://youtu.be/aCMvQhGp-DI
     
  17. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    Also if you're going to be sanding and painting stuff don't forget you can split models up, print the pieces and glue them together if you ever want to make something bigger. Doing that will also make failed prints less painful.
     
  18. John F

    John F Active Member War Zone Member

    I haven't printed anything cool or fun. :)

    I'm still just doing practical stuff, although my use has gone way done lately. I made a part for a vacuum, my lawn mower, and a phone holder for my daughter's car that fits in the cup holder.
     
  19. CJ

    CJ Well-Known Member Admin War Zone Member

    Top Poster Of Month

    So after doing a TON of research in the last few days I'm a little torn. Part of me says, buy something that's not terrible expensive and have fun with it. Another part of me says buy something nicer (but still not crazy expensive) or you'll get frustrated with the quality and not use it. And then a third part says that this is all so new, that $3500 printer will be $350 in two years.

    It definitely seems like this technology is still at the stage where people are discovering new ways to solve fundamental problems and actually do it cheaper. I also think resolution will increase significantly in the next few years. I saw a demo of some really high end printer that can do 10 microns. They showed the same object printed at 10 and 100 microns. The 10 micron print looks like an injection molded production part compared to 100 microns.

    I'm wondering if fused filament will reach its limits shortly and everything will be go to laser or UV printing of liquid or powdered resin. I saw a 6ft tall industrial printer that instead of using a laser that travels around the entire slice point by point by point by point by point by point by point it uses a modified projector that shines the entire slice in UV all at once so you get slice by slice by slice instead of point by point by point. I wonder how long before someone scales that to a desktop printer.

    I haven't fully made up my mind yet but given my use cases, this might be something for me to wait on.
     
  20. Dustin B

    Dustin B Active Member War Zone Member

    I don't see ffd ever producing anything with spectacular resolution and definitely not quickly. It has substantial limitations but when you understand and work around them you can do a lot of amazing things. Especially with some of the newer printers that can lay continuous carbon (or other material) fiber strings between layers of plastic. I see that type of tech getting cheaper soon. Not entry level consumer cheap but under 2k cheap compared to the 6k plus now. This is also all stuff more geared towards functional prints.

    I see smaller build volume high resolution SLA printing getting cheaper and with some new techs much faster (Gizmo 3D and Carbon3D). This might be worth waiting a couple years for to see what comes out. I wouldn't expect anythjng over 6x6x6ish in the sub $1500 range any time soon though.

    Large scale high resolution SLA and powder that's resin or laser sinter hardened, that makes it easy to deal with the powders and resins is going to stay in the way out of consumer reach price range for some time to come. The demos are amazing but they are all 50k to 500k+ machines. What they have to do to get the results they do just isn't cheap. Maintaining tolerances and effectively dealing with resins and powders requires expensive parts. I'll be shocked if anythjng with a decent build volume that can do what those machines can comes to even the consumer 3-6k range inside 10 years.

    If you aren't afraid of the post processing stuff I wouldn't wait. I'm pretty confident you'd have a lot of fun with a 1-2k ffd printer. And dealing with filament is much easier and neater than dealing with powders and resins.
     

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